If you spend enough time at Alvi’s Drift, you’ll know. Verreaux’s eagle doesn’t announce its presence. When a huge shadow falls over the land, you simply look up, and it’s there, silently riding the thermal currents up high.
And yet, for those who live and work on our third-generation wine farm, this magnificent bird’s presence has become part of the rhythm of our daily lives – an awe-inspiring symbol of the Breede River Valley’s vastness and stillness.
And when it came time to name our most focused expression of South Africa’s very own grape varietal, it felt more like a recognition than a decision.
A Proudly South African Wine
Pinotage is an unmistakably South African varietal with a structure and character all of its own.
Grown in our country’s sunny climate, this singular grape brings forth wines with vibrant, dark fruit, firm but approachable tannins, and layers of earthy spice. Notes of plum, black cherry, cocoa, and subtle smoke are often present, with a structure that allows for ageing – but doesn’t require it.
It’s a remarkable grape that can yield exceptional wines, but only when cultivated and vinified with attention and care.
Stylistically, Pinotage defies easy categorisation. This variety can be fruit-forward and juicy in one vintage, restrained and brooding in another. That’s part of its challenge, and also its appeal.
The Fascinating History of Pinotage
It all began in 1925, when Pinotage was created as an experimental cross between Pinot Noir – known for its elegance, delicate perfume, and silky tannins – and Cinsaut (then referred to locally as Hermitage), a grape prized for its vigour, drought resistance, and ability to deliver generous yields in warm climates.
The man who brought Pinotage into being was Abraham Izak Perold, the first Professor of Viticulture at Stellenbosch University. Prof Perold’s goal was to combine the finesse and aromatic complexity of Burgundy’s most revered red with the resilience needed to thrive in South Africa’s often challenging growing conditions.
But Pinotage’s survival came down to more than scientific intent – it also involved a moment of pure chance.
The Day Pinotage Was Nearly Lost
The year was 1927. Prof Perold had left Stellenbosch University to join KWV, and his former residence at Welgevallen Experimental Farm stood empty and overgrown.
As a clean-up team prepared to clear the garden, Dr Charlie Niehaus, a young lecturer, happened to cycle past. Recognising the significance of the seedlings growing there, he stepped in – rescuing the only four Pinotage vines in existence at the time. Niehaus then replanted them at nearby Elsenburg Agricultural College.
In 1941, CT de Waal – university lecturer, winemaker, and friend of Prof Perold – produced the very first Pinotage wine at Elsenburg. Yet, for decades, the wine resisted easy understanding.
The earliest commercial bottlings showed promise, but also inconsistency. In the vineyard, vines grew vigorously. In the cellar, Pinotage could be volatile, with some early wines marred by overly extracted tannins or undesirable aromas.
A Grape That Had to Earn Its Place
By the 1970s, opinion on this unpredictable varietal had become deeply divided. Some producers abandoned it altogether, opting to work with more conventional grape cultivars. Others persisted, slowly learning how to coax the best from this temperamental varietal.
It would take decades of refinement – and a new generation of winemakers – before Pinotage began to reveal its true depth of character, and find its own voice.
“Verreaux’s eagle, named after the French naturalist, Jules Verreaux, is pronounced ‘vuh-ROH’ – with the final ‘x’ silent. To see this bird soaring in the skies above our farm makes me feel humble and reminds me how precious our time on earth is. We need to care for nature the way it cares for us.” – Alvi van der Merwe
Alvi’s Drift Verreaux Pinotage: From Red Blend to Flagship Wine
At Alvi’s Drift, our respect for Pinotage runs deep. Not just for what it is, but for what it asks of us. It’s a grape that rewards attention over shortcuts.
“When I started my journey in wine, the first red I made in 2005 was a Cape blend (dominated by Pinotage) that we later renamed Drift Fusion. It was extremely successful and won numerous awards,” says Alvi. “In the years that followed, every time I tasted the Pinotage barrels, I realised that some were just so unique and brilliant. So, in 2012 – seven years later – we made the first Verreaux Pinotage. The Verreaux’s, or black eagle, is frequently seen on our farm and is one of the highest-flying eagles in the world. We believed this name was perfect for such an exceptional wine.”
Made only in exceptional vintages, our flagship wine is crafted to showcase the depth, clarity, and character of the varietal at its finest.
“Pinotage, to me, is the most sublime fruit to work with, when tasting grapes at optimal ripeness during harvest,” says Alvi. “I believe every fruit and wine has its own unique flavour profile. In the vineyard, factors like rootstock, clone, soil, and weather all come into play. But nothing replaces the importance of picking grapes at optimal ripeness.”
“Our goal is to craft a Pinotage that’s true to itself, one that expresses that typical, perfume-like character the variety can offer when treated with respect. We always want an authentic Pinotage: elegant and expressive, not masked by overwork.” – Riaan Marais, Cellar Master
A Wine as Bold as the Bird It Was Named For
Our Verreaux Pinotage has its beginnings long before harvest time. It starts with identifying our farm’s top Pinotage vineyard blocks. Ultimately, only a small portion of our Pinotage grapes will make the cut.
“Our location plays a key role. We’re situated close to the river, which provides a cooler microclimate, ideal for growing Pinotage,” says farm manager, Jan du Toit. “Although technically part of the Worcester region, our vineyards are positioned closer to the Villiersdorp side, which is noticeably cooler. This unique positioning sets us apart and creates favourable conditions that help our Pinotage grape express purity, structure, and finesse.”
To create our winery’s flagship wine, grapes are hand-harvested in the early morning. “The blocks considered for Verreaux Pinotage are those where the microclimate contributes positively to the vine’s development, particularly influencing how the fruit ripens,” notes Jan. “Selection is based on the character of the fruit, specifically the flavour profile and the quality of the grape skins, which are essential for crafting a wine with depth, structure, and complexity.”
Once harvested, grapes destined for our Verreaux Pinotage are brought to our cellar, where fermentation takes place in the kuipe originally constructed by our founder, Oupa Alvi. These traditional, open-top concrete tanks allow for greater control over extraction, maintaining delicacy in the wine while building structure.
“The vineyard blocks selected for Verreaux Pinotage are very specific and carefully chosen. It’s a focused and deliberate process. The position, the fruit quality, and especially the yield and intensity of the grapes all play a critical role. Verreaux Pinotage is crafted as a fuller, more concentrated wine, so we pay close attention to the berries, the skins, and the flavour potential they hold.” – Riaan Marais, Cellar Master
From Pigeage to Barrel: A Journey of Time & Precision
During fermentation, punch-down (pigeage) is done by hand, up to eight times a day, with our cellar team monitoring the wine’s temperature and tannin development closely. After fermentation, the wine rests on its skins for an additional time before being pressed and transferred to barrels.
“The vinification of Verreaux grapes is treated more classically than our other Pinotage wines. From the beginning, it’s destined for the barrel, where the oak integration is more refined and long-term,” says Riaan. “This is a wine that demands greater precision and attention to detail. Every step is taken with the end goal in mind: crafting our flagship Pinotage with depth, structure, and a strong sense of place.”
Once fermentation is completed, our Verreaux Pinotage’s maturation process is carefully managed. It spends 18 months in a combination of French and American oak, with a mix of new and older barrels to add complexity without masking its wonderful fruit characteristics.
The final wine is medium-bodied but layered, with flavours of plum, fig and dark cherry. There’s richness, but also beautiful restraint. It’s a wine that rewards attention, but never asks for it.
1925-2025: 100 Years of Pinotage
As Pinotage marks its 100th anniversary this year, there has been renewed interest and reflection. From where did this varietal originate? What has it taught us? And where is it headed?
At Alvi’s Drift, this conversation begins – and ends – with the land.
Our Verreaux Pinotage isn’t made to fit a mould. It’s made to honour a process of passion, precision, and patience. And a willingness to always trust in nature’s wisdom.
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